Friday, July 6, 2012

Marseille/Luminy, conference on the coast of France

I was at a conference at the CIRM in Luminy, France. It's effectively part of Marseille, but removed a bit/more in the mountains. Marseille itself is rather run down, people living in collapsing buildings. I watched my wallet when I went to town. 


At the conference, things ran surprisingly on time. Breakfast, lunch and dinner began and ended at the exact times set.  Lunch and dinner were multiple course affairs, although in the end did not feel like that much food. 


Marseille by plane:

From Germany 2012-2013


Here's a view of the mountains at night. Rough, limestone.


From Germany 2012-2013

Here's a view of the main conference center building, in which we ate our meals and in which several of the speakers were housed. The rest of us were in the Annex, and I lucked out with a room that doesn't get hit with as much sun on the afternoon, so it's not as hot when I get back to try to go to sleep. 

We spent our evenings on the benches by the building; the weather was really pleasant at night. 
The dining area was through/inside the white arches.
From Germany 2012-2013
The climate reminds me of Texas ``Hill Country''. Surprisingly desert-like, with sparse, dead grass and  very sparse, skinny trees. Limestone. Humid and hot, as well.


On our excursion day (Wednesday), I went to Marseille proper with two other conference participants. We had heard of boat trips to nearby islands, including the famed one of Chateau d'If (of 'Count of Monte Cristo' and 'Man in the Iron Mask' fame -- Wikipedia says the latter is not in fact really associated with Chateau d'If, although popularly believed to be). 

Marseille is a bit run down. This was my impression on the bus from the airport, people clearly living in buildings with collapsing/collapsed roofs and dilapidated and cracked outer walls. In the downtown, the ground floor of buildings might be a bit better kempt, but above that, well. 

Ground and 1st floor clean and tidy, and the rest more typical 
From Germany 2012-2013
I don't know what this is, but it was around the corner from where the bus to town dropped us off:


Finding the harbor was easy, and the boat ride was very affordable. Something like 5 euros (and 10 cents). Here's the view as the boat eased out of the dock:


From Germany 2012-2013

Leaving and entering, we noticed a fortress right there at Marseille proper, not on an island at all, very blocky. There seemed to be something happening there. Maybe a wedding? Who knows.

Here's the other side of the same fortress:


And a nice view from the boat of islands we didn't visit:

Here's one of the prettier things in the harbor area of Marseille, viewed from the boat. I'm not quite sure what it is:


At last, Chateau d'If. Originally a Chateau, later converted into a prison.


View from the Chateau's 'front door'
From Germany 2012-2013

Someone had a sense of humor and carved what I think is ''Hotel of Suffering People'' on the arch above the door, just inside the courtyard:


A nice view of the courtyard and out to sea, from inside one of the ground floor rooms:

From Germany 2012-2013

There was a tour, but in French and with no walking around of the tour guide. None of us had good enough French to benefit from it, so we skipped it. Which is a shame, because all the displays were in French and I didn't really get a feel for what I was looking at.

In 1515 the monarch of Portugal was gifted a Rhinoceros by the ruler of India.  Wanting to get in good with the Pope, Portugal decided to ship it there. However, the ship wrecked around Marseille, and they put it on the island/in Chateau d'If (not yet a prison, it became one in 1582). Someone sent a sketch on to Dürer, who made a famous woodcut, which this is a print from:


From Germany 2012-2013
Oh, right. So the Rhino was there a while, then they decided to send it on to the Pope for real this time, but the boat wrecked (again, I know) and this time the rhino died. But the carcass washed ashore and they had it stuffed and finally that made it to the pope. 

There are three towers when there were supposed to have been four. Here are some views from various windows in one:



I found the entry-ways to the rooms to be very short, even though the ceilings were pretty high in general. It was fine for me, but anyone taller than maybe 5'7''(~170cm) would have to stoop. Here's the view down a hallway:

So, if you had money and you were imprisoned there, you could rent a nicer cell. They nice cells were quite nice, all had chimneys and windows and vaulted ceilings. Here's the doorway out of one:


From Germany 2012-2013

There was a strange display on the Count of Monte Cristo story. Also, we learned that somewhere in China is an exact replica, on an island, of Chateau d'If.


From Germany 2012-2013

There was a really lovely courtyard which is what the 'nice' cells overlooked. Here's a view:


From Germany 2012-2013

Here's a view of main/old Marseille:


From Germany 2012-2013


Here's a house-y building, viewed from the Chateau


From Germany 2012-2013

the area where we bought our tickets/entered, and some beautiful ocean water/coral nearby:


more beautiful ocean

From Germany 2012-2013


and one of the towers

From Germany 2012-2013


One of the towers was bigger than the others, and had a good view down to the rest of the Chateau:

From Germany 2012-2013

The tower also had a cathedral in its top floor, so the roof was domed (which you could walk on, and had a sort of ''echo point'' in the very center):


The general lack of rain was a bit more pronounced here. No trees at all, and lots of succultents around like this one:

and my parting view of the Chateau






Friday, June 29, 2012

Brief US interlude: Charlottesville, VA (i.e. Monticello)

I was briefly back in the states for a conference. Between actively trying not to sleep in the first half of the week (woke up at 4:30am? Great! Let's go try out the hotel gym) to sleep dep the last half of the week (cause by an awesome math party which also included a green donkey piñata), I don't think I really managed to completely switch over timezone-wise internally. As a result, the first few days back in Hamburg, I was yawning and tired at 20:00 (which is 14:00 Virginia time, for those keeping track) and waking up around 9:00 or 9:45.

Math conferences have learned that the entire week being nonstop math is a good way to melt all of our brains, so in the interest of preserving the future generations of math talent, there's usually an excursion (or just some kind of break) halfway through. This was a week-long conference, so this happened wednesday afternoon. I ended up going to Monticello (Jefferson's home/plantation) with several other gals from the conference.

So, after Jefferson was president of the states, that not being enough, he felt the need to found a university on his buddy's land. And he really did found this university. He designed the buildings, hired the people to build them, hired the faculty and drew up the curriculum. As a side-note, UVA did not admit women to any undergraduate program until around 1970 (they had admitted women to grad programs (such as nursing) a bit earlier).

We got to Monticello and forked over the exorbitant entrance fee of $24, which does, to be fair, entitle one to 3 possible tours of the premises, and a shuttle ride up and/or down the hill between the house proper and the parking area. We were at the house a bit early for our tour, so we first looked around at the gardens:


From Germany 2012-2013

These contained a lot of flowers and plants that were being raised mainly to harvest seeds from (and sell in the giftshop). Here's the part with some grapevines:



From Germany 2012-2013

Also, bizarro onions, which produce the bulb part above-ground (the logical question, which we didn't ask, was do these continue? That is, do they produce more onion clusters further along in a fractal-esque fashion):

From Germany 2012-2013

Pretty, random flowers:

From Germany 2012-2013

Artichokes:
From Germany 2012-2013

Artichokes in bloom (they're thistles!):
From Germany 2012-2013

We weren't allowed to take pictures of the house because a lot of things in the house were loaned out from various museums, and they didn't have the picture-taking rights. When you walk in, on one wall is a (rather garish) collection of Native American artifacts which had been collected as sort of 'peace offers' (mainly during the travels of Lewis and Clark). Above the door and draped over the sides of the room was a weird clock, counter-balanced by some cannon balls hanging on a string.


Jefferson loved ice cream. So, he constructed a giant-normous chamber which his men stored ice in. As soon as the nearby water source (river? lake?) froze over, they'd go cut it into pieces and haul it back. It was maybe 3 stories or so deep. There was room for meltoff to be drained as well. Quite ingenius.

Nearby the top of the ice chamber
From Germany 2012-2013

Looking down into the ice chamber, mainly underground
From Germany 2012-2013

Here's a view from his lawn. That's the house, and the stuff to either side (with the white fence) is the top of the 'dependencies', where the ice chamber was, as well as where he stored beer, cider, and other important things.




Here's a really lovely view of the mountains. Didn't really get a chance to walk around them, but they were really beautiful as a backdrop. 


Around back was the Jefferson family graveyard, still in use. The original cover to Jefferson's grave was replaced by an obelisk at the insistence of the US gov't at some point. I suppose it does serve to effectively guard the grave,  I think it'd be hard to move it and disturb the graves. 



Walking back to the gift shop/parking lot area, we saw this neat tree-entwining-tree 

And no trip to the states is complete without a bit of Americana. I leave you with this. It is, yes, a camouflaged pickup truck. 


Friday, June 15, 2012

Here and there, including Neuengamme

Not quite an entirely random post. I have several smallish things I figured I should put together before I forget all about them or such. I also have a list of ''weird things about Germans/Germany" I've been accumulating that I'm not sure where to put or how often to say something about it, so I'll put it here for now.

Content: German commentary, pics from a past Berlin trip, apartment, Neuengamme,

0.  German(y) commentary: 

I was recently asked what I miss from the states.  

  • Shopping on Sundays         (outside of the few shops at the bigger train stations)
  • Ibuprofen not being a controlled substance        (in Germany you can only get it in a pharmacy, and those are never open on Sundays, not even in train stations)
  • Internet that doesn't suck    (German's all use patchy-at-best DSL. When I complained that DSL by default is slow, they said well, there also *is* superfast DSL. Yeah, but, none of you guys buy and use it. Bleah). 

Things I don't miss: 


  • the inability to get anywhere without a car
  • the sprawl of the average American city 
  • our absurd anti-science politics
  • quiet concerns about things like the potential of being bankrupted by a medical bill 

Something I'd like to have: 

I'd really like a webpage where I type in something/some store I want from the states and I get out its German/Hamburgisch equivalent. Here are some examples: 

States                                         Germany
REI                                          Globetrotters
Bed, Bath & Beyond      Dänisches Bettenlager (for the bed stuff) + maybe Butlers +...? 
Walmart/Target                     Toom or Real 

Miscellaneous cultural commentary: 


Asparagus: 
So, Germans are crazy about their crazy albino asparagus (Spargel):




From Germany 2012-2013



This is now in full season and everywhere. It's grown in sandy mounds, kept under plastic to regulate the heat, and picked before breaking through the surface. To cook it, you're supposed to peel it (since it's much thicker than what I would call ''normal'' asparagus) and then boil it for ~15 minutes and cover it with hollandaise sauce. Probably also serve with potatoes.

Holidays/'Feierabend'
When leaving for the weekend, you might wish someone a nice weekend(ein schönes Wochenende), or when they're leaving work the day before a holiday, you might wish them a nice holiday(schöner Feiertag). However, people also wish each other a pleasant ''holiday evening''(schöner Feierabend).  I remarked to my officemate (Bürokollege) that this seemed to express a different view on one's time relative to work. That is, you're sort of saying that your baseline assumption is to work all the time, and the time at night is ''holiday time''.

Also, man, so many religious holidays. I mean, I'm not turning down a holiday, I just find it a bit weird. 

Dogs, everywhere
No, really. From the grocery store to the fancy restaurant next to the art cinema, to the mall, everyone takes their dogs everywhere. And these are not all teacup-poodle-sized, either. Labs and larger, even. 

Handshake
It's not really done, here. Or, it's often the ''dead fish'' handshake, where one hands the other person their (limp) hand and it is awkwardly clasped and released. 


For your amusement, some false cognates (or 'Falsche Freunde'):
  • das Gift = poison
  • der Ass.  As in, ''Er ist ein wirkliches Ass". This was something one of the profs I teach for said in an E-mail. It means  ''Ace'' or "whiz''. 
  • der After (I'll let you look that one up)
  • die Fabrik = factory 
  • blenden (=to dazzle/blind with light)
  • bald = soon
  • fast = almost
  • der Mop = mop
  • der Mops = pug (as in, the dog) 
  • die Mappe = Folder/portfolio 
  • Not = emergency 
  • genial = clever 
Additionally, there is no word for "Cranberries" in German, despite whatever dict.leo.org says. Since they show up a lot, here are the other berries one might mistake for cranberries:
Preiselbeeren  = Lingonberries
Johannisbeeren= Currants

And, for your amusement, a cute German poem with illustrations Ottos mops. This is how I learned that there's a word in German for ''to spite someone'', which is "trotzen'' (it becomes ''trotzdem'' to mean ''despite'').


I. Pics from a past Berlin trip:

I went to a big complex of gardens in former east Berlin (Marzahn, ''Gärten der Welt''). Here's the nest pic I took in the trip:

From Germany 2012-2013


There was also a (creepy/oppressive-feeling) ''Christian Garden'' with surrounding walkways full of text (sayings of Christian religious people, not Bible text). The garden itself was roped off (i.e. you weren't allowed to enter). There should be some kind of Eden comment here.

From Germany 2012-2013


II. My apartment

So, I made a key mistake. I'd like to share so that none of you make the same mistake, if you can avoid it. That is, I moved into an apartment where my landlady=my flatmate, and she's lived there on her own since '85 (i.e. for quite a long time). When people live alone a long time, they build up a lot of habits of ways things need to be to make them happy.

E.g., the lid on the toilet always has to be down (otherwise ``money flows out of the apartment'') and one part of my room has to be entirely yellow (because that's the part that is not included in the area that has a balcony in front of it).

Yellow corner
From Germany 2012-2013
There's more I can say, but I'll just leave it at that. I'm happy to elaborate over a beer if we happen to be in the same place and time (and around some beer).

I do have a nice balcony with a great view, but the weather's been a bit chilly and wet (12 C/54 F) for hanging out on it. Also, the internet signal (weak and patchy anyway) doesn't reach out there.


view of balcony from my door-windows
From Germany 2012-2013



view down from balcony, of inner green courtyard area
From Germany 2012-2013

So, found a new place, moving in next month. Lease for a year. It's a relief, for sure.


III. Neuengamme

I'm not trying to treat this with too much levity. I'm not sure how to treat it. It was strange and somber and also somehow not inclusive of enough of the right sorts of information. One building was all about the SS workers (and how many of them didn't end up getting charged criminally -- lack of evidence, from all the document destruction :/). The last building we went into was a factory run by a separate company, and it detailed the lives and treatment of workers.

The path there was really beautiful.

From Germany 2012-2013


The plants really were a sort of neon green. It was weird.
From Germany 2012-2013

Neuengamme was a ''Konzentrationslager'', near Hamburg. A work camp (where people were worked to death, actively).  I visited it with my officemate. We were looking for other people who were interested in going as well, but this was complicated by the awkwardness of asking someone to go to a Konzentraionslager, and the fact that there was a Neo-nazi march (and counter-protest) taking place the same day in Hamburg which people wanted to be at to protest.

From Germany 2012-2013

One of the workers buried logbooks, so the following records survived the general informational purge at the camp at the end of the war:
the first rather somber thing we came across
From Germany 2012-2013

Your suffering, your struggle and your death shall not be forgotten/forgiven(?)
From Germany 2012-2013
Bricks and concrete slabs were made in the camp. Moving these things around (and onto barges to ship elswhere) was very dangerous work. 

Common house of pre-fabricated concrete slabs from the camp
From Germany 2012-2013
After the war, it was converted into a prison and used as such for a long time.  Graffiti says "Here once stood a concentration camp". People were upset as they felt this usage was the government trying to erase/ignore what happened here. 

From Germany 2012-2013


In Hamburg (at least), buildings often come with plaques saying who built it and when. This is a board put up by one of the 'international peace camps' that was involved in preservation/restoring/construction of the current exhibit/layout of the camp. There's a ''company'' that ran the labor camps, which was the "Deutsche Erd- und Steinwerke GmbH'' (German Earth and Stonework, ~LLC). That is, this is a bit of dark humor (or levity?) added later.
a small amount of levity. 
From Germany 2012-2013



the only remaining watchtower from the camp
From Germany 2012-2013