Monday, October 1, 2012

Swizterland: Bern-- Gurten and Botanical Garden


(Bern general commentary:) It's a really beautiful place. On the last day, the water in the Aare seemed to finally be warm enough to maybe swim in, but that was the day I was leaving, and it would've been hard to shuffle the luggage and the swimclothes and whatnot. So, maybe I will make it back at some point and be able to try floating down the Aare. I think the bears in the Bärgraben were some of the best bits of Bern (outside of the epic views of the Alps). I'm glad I saw them post-renovation. Stories of the pre-renovation Bärgraben seem pretty grim. Here's a site that details the old and new stuff a bit, and some of what they said:

"The [previous enclosure] was opened on May 27, 1857. Twelve or more bears were intermittently kept in the 3.5 metre deep pit. Between 1994 and 1996, this historic enclosure, a monument of national importance, was completely renovated to improve conditions for the bears."
It was nice being some place where the one foreign language I knew a bit of was somehow helpful. There was some word bleed-over from French, which mattered when trying to order lunch. E.g. "Poulet" instead of "Hänchen"(chicken).  I found the accent understandable (I'm guessing people used Hochdeutsch to respond when I asked for something at a drugstore or in a restaurant, rather than Suissedeutsch) and nice, sort of melodic (reminded me of Scandinavian languages), although also with a lot of the kind of "ch" sound one might find in Hebrew (like the "ch" in "challah") rather than the softer "ch" I've gotten used to.

I'd visit again, and definitely suggest you all to go if you have the chance. Enjoy the last block of my Bern adventure.

I. The Gurten

So, there's a nice hill (''the Gurten" or "Bern's local mountain") around Bern that people do some gentle skiing on when there's some snow. Regardless of snow, there's a funicular (mountain elevator -- looks like a train, but the mechanism is like an elevator) that goes up it and there seemed like there'd be a nice view from there.

You can see why I call it a hill
From Arolla-Switzerland 2012



I saw a few Swiss versions of "Fachwerkhäuse" en route; here's the one at the base of the Gurten:

From Arolla-Switzerland 2012

Here's the view out of one Gurten-car to the other:

There were several nice paths around the top of the hill. One ended in a nice panoramic view of the Alps, complete with a little infographic telling you which peaks were which, and how high they are (in meters 4078m is a bit more than 2.5 miles): 

By the way, panoramas are impossible.

I tried, I really did.
From Arolla-Switzerland 2012
Better yet, the view in a few pieces:

So, the Gurten's top is sort of flat-ish, and has some nice hiking paths, as well as a restaurant, a really cool kid's play area, and an observation hour. The kids are has the following, which is called a Kugelbahn in German, but I guess maybe I'd just call a Rube Goldberg machine:



The goal is to figure out how to move a ball (or more) from one side of the U to the other, via various mechanisms that sometimes required (as you can see) jumping up and down on levers, possibly while simultaneously spinning others:
Cleverly shielded from the rain, even
From Arolla-Switzerland 2012

Here's a view of the observation deck from the observation deck: 

The next is a nice picture of the Gurten's top (which may be called "Swiss flat"). The lower righthand corner is this big wooden kids play area, adjacent to the Kugelbahn, the upper left is roughly where I was looking out at the alps a few pictures back:


Besides the cool wooden climbing/play area and the Kugelbahn, there were also pay-as-you-go go-cart type things that even the tiniest kids were piloting by themselves and there was also a rideable mini-train. It made a lap or two around an area including those carts and also went through a tunnel.  I was surprised that it was sturdy enough to support both children and adults. The driver appeared to be Ken:

From Arolla-Switzerland 2012

II. Botanical Garden

The botanical garden was between my hotel and the train station, so a logical choice of thing to visit.  They had a lot of neat plants, as well as a sort of exhibit (interlaced with the normal ones) on (dangerously) invasive plants.

The first cool plant was the "Man Eater's Tomato" (it (supposedly) helped the people of Fiji digest human flesh (which they ate only on rare/ceremonial occasions)).


From Arolla-Switzerland 2012

From Arolla-Switzerland 2012

I learned that the German word (well, at least in Bern) for "Succulent" (as in, the desert plants) is "Sukkulent". Here's one of my favorites:

From Arolla-Switzerland 2012

as well as a similar one:
From Arolla-Switzerland 2012
and some in bloom, even:

I don't think I'd seen this type before
From Arolla-Switzerland 2012

and more desert plants!-- I saw a cushion for sale (maybe a stool?well, something you sit on) with patterned fabric to make it look like these round cacti in the foreground:


I really love the love of desert plants here. Maybe akin to trying to raise orchids in the desert (which we had had a neighbor do, when I lived in the mountains of New Mexico).

Here's something that was news to me. The prickly pear cactus (Aufrechter Feigenkaktus) is on the 100 most invasive plant species list. As you can (maybe) tell, it wasn't doing so well in Bern, though.

From Arolla-Switzerland 2012



The German names for a lot of these made good sense. This is the "Red Cat-tail": 

There were several greenhouses of varying climates. I, of course, walked through when they were being watered. Although, maybe that was pretty often anyway, since these were palms/tropical:


Here's some pretty flowers from the greenhouse, without commentary:


On the most-invasive-species list was also a type of water plant which had become invasive because of botanical gardens using them all over because they seemed decorative. Turns out the stuff grew like a weed (think 'kudzu', if you're from the south, but in the water) and choked up waterways to make them impassible.  Each invasive plant exhibit included commentary on what people had done to try to remove them and how effective their efforts were.


Wednesday, September 26, 2012

Switzerland: Bern's Rose Garden and its Münster

The end of the tourist-office's recommended walk was the Rosengarten (Rose Garden), which had a nice views of Bern.

I. Views from the Rosengarten 

More Alpine views
From Arolla-Switzerland 2012

Bern's older part of town. This is just to the 'right' (North?) of the Bärgraben
From Arolla-Switzerland 2012

Later on, had dinner sitting behind the parliament (with its awesome views).


From Arolla-Switzerland 2012


II. Views from the Münster and the walk back

Also took a look at the Münster (a Münster is a type of cathedral) -- the city's main church/old.
From Arolla-Switzerland 2012

which had a really ornate decoration above its door: 


and also had really nice views from the back courtyard: 

That's the castle/house thing that showed up in the pictures of Bern with the Alps from last post
From Arolla-Switzerland 2012

The courtyard was neat. It was a platform that basically extended the higher layer of Bern out over the lower layer.

Looking out from the courtyard, you can see we're on level with the upper layer of Bern. I really liked the terrassed gardens the people there had.

From Arolla-Switzerland 2012

better view of the gardens
From Arolla-Switzerland 2012

The furthest point you can still make out in this picture, left 1/5 of the shot, and just below the trees, is the restaurant at the top of the hill that the Bärengraben is on. It was too far to make out any bears, even if they'd been that high up, though.



The platform had a lift that was somehow run by the city (part of public transit system??) which would bring people between the two levels:


You can kind of see in the background the different colors of water -- there was a very wide dam of the Aare right there. Like so:

From Arolla-Switzerland 2012

After the sun was basically down,  walked around the corner from the Münster through some cute streets

From Arolla-Switzerland 2012

I heard a noise like someone had thrown water on the street. Wary of getting drenched, I looked around, trying to find the source. I could see the puddle.

 Finally, saw this strange thing up on a roof: 


and here it is ''in action''
From Arolla-Switzerland 2012


Maybe it's an art installation.

I noticed that the side street I was on had a few faded murals.
From Arolla-Switzerland 2012


This next one is one of my favorite pictures from the trip:
From Arolla-Switzerland 2012


and here's the square by the Parliament building again, but at night. Including the ''fachwerkhaus''-esque (white) tower that has a name and is on the tourist map, but not something you could actually go inside and poke around at:

From Arolla-Switzerland 2012


III. Views of the Münster

These were taken the next day, but I think make more sense to put here. 
This is from the bridge near the Münster:


This next one makes it pretty clear the platform/courtyard thing is seriously reinforced. I wonder if there's rooms and stuff inside/under it. Also, you can see at the bottom of the picture a restaurant that is on/above the dam. I imagine it's pretty expensive.

From Arolla-Switzerland 2012
Went down to that area in front of the restaurant. There was a pier or kind of an area that was really only big enough for a table that jutted out over the water. I'd be nervous to sit there. This is what was there, by itself:


The lower left side of this next picture is the sideview of what that table was sitting on. 

Looks reallllly sturdy. 
From Arolla-Switzerland 2012

IV. Bears, again

Just one more, because went back to look at them again. They're pretty great.
mama bear
From Arolla-Switzerland 2012
Also learned that the bears had been kept separate when the cubs were young and only very recently (the trip took place at the end of August) were brought (back?) together. Might've been part of why they were so active (outside of general awesomeness of their enclosure).  




What's left yet from Bern: going up the funicular/Gurten, seeing the awesome stuff atop (including a viewing tower) and the botanical garden.

Friday, September 21, 2012

Switzerland: Beautiful Bern

The train ride from Sion to Bern had some really lovely views, and for this ride I was by the window, so could take some pictures:



Even the train rides have amazing views. 
From Arolla-Switzerland 2012

Including a random hill, reminded me of the (three) strange hills in the valley Sion was nestled into:


I'm not going to complain about sunlight, but it did make it hard to photograph the Alps. 


First view of Bern. Sadly, you can't see the Alps, but you can see the crazy turquoise of the water:

From Arolla-Switzerland 2012

Bern (with an "e" if you're German) has a river running through it which is swift-flowing, clear, and a brilliant and crazy shade of turquoise or aquamarine. Also, amazingly cold (being glacial runoff). When enough days in a row have been warm, the river warms up enough to swim in in the Summer, and walking by the Aare, one sees many people swimming or drifting, sometimes with their things in a waterproof bag that they're pulling along with them. They then climb out of the river, walk back upstream and do it again: 


Source of the name "Bern", ala wikipedia:

"The etymology of the name Bern is uncertain. According to the local legend, based on folk etymologyBerchtold V, Duke of Zähringen, the founder of the city of Bern, vowed to name the city after the first animal he met on the hunt, and this turned out to be a bear. It has long been considered likely that the city was named after the Italian city of Verona, which at the time was known as Bern in Middle High German. As a result of the find of the Bern zinc tablet in the 1980, it is now more common to assume that the city was named after a pre-existing toponym of Celtic origin, possibly *berna "cleft".[9] The bear was the heraldic animal of the seal and coat of arms of Bern from at least the 1220s. The earliest reference to the keeping of live bears in the Bärengraben dates to the 1440s."

The visitor's office recommends a scenic walk around the old town area, ending around the Bärengraben and viewpoint at the Rosengarten. First view of the parliament building, with it's fun fountain in front:


More fountain!
From Arolla-Switzerland 2012

Turns out, the Parliament building had one of the best views in town (in my opinion).

View of the Alps from behind the Parliament building:

From Arolla-Switzerland 2012


a nice view of the Aare, in it's crazy glacial blue-green glory. In the back is the hill that the Gurten goes up:

From Arolla-Switzerland 2012

Power lines powering the electric trams:


From Arolla-Switzerland 2012



Another nearby tower had a cool clock inset:
From Arolla-Switzerland 2012



The underside had measuring rods on the wall

including a "Swiss foot" which is 3/10 of a meter:

From Arolla-Switzerland 2012

The walk included a peek at the Albert Einstein house, which was closed from water damage due to a broken pipe: 

From Arolla-Switzerland 2012

The city had a lot of fountains and cool animal things on the buildings:

From Arolla-Switzerland 2012


The water going to every fountain ran down this main street, mainly under grating:
From Arolla-Switzerland 2012



Rar I'm a lion
From Arolla-Switzerland 2012


Bern seems comprised of two 'levels', one along the river and one a bit higher.  Here's looking down from one to another:

From Arolla-Switzerland 2012

and a view of the two levels of Bern, from above the Bärengraben:

From Arolla-Switzerland 2012


Nearby, first view of the Bärengraben, where two of the bears were swimming:



The Bärengraben and the Aare were the best parts, I think.

Bears in the Bärengraben, interested in the food about to be thrown down:

From Arolla-Switzerland 2012

Cute bear shenanigans, post-food:

View from above the Bärengraben:
From Arolla-Switzerland 2012



Sitting by the Aare, putting my feet in and pulling them out, by the Bärengraben:

From Arolla-Switzerland 2012

The Bärengraben had a row of grapevines behind what looked like an electric fence, and in front of a stone wall. There were also grapes growing on another wall:

From Arolla-Switzerland 2012
At least one more post from Bern (hey, I was there ~3 days :) ) coming up, including the trip up the Gurten (very small ski hill) and other scenic views of Bern.