Lille, France and Brussels, Belgium (Pfingstferien, 19 May - 26 May 2013 + some September 2012)

I found out two Wednesdays ago that our students would have a week vacation for "Pfingsten". This apparently is a University-level decision. That is, some universities have a week off, some don't. Everyone has that Monday off, as it's a public holiday. Due to the technicalities of vacation time in Germany, I also designed it to be a "working holiday", so the touristing stuff was on the weekend and late afternoons.

Discovering this, I decided that I really ought to see some friends I haven't seen in a while but have been meaning to (former residents of Champaign-Urbana, Illinois as well) in Brussels and also see my good friend who is in Lille, France, as she leaves Europe to move back across the ocean soon.

I bought a roundtrip flight through Brussels and also (by walking in to a DeutscheBahn travel center) bought TGV tickets between Brussels and Lille; by (fast) train, it's about 30 minutes.

While waiting at the Brussels  airport train station, I noticed this Mannekin-Pis Cola machine. Well. It is a symbol of Brussels.

Here's the view pulling out of the train station. Bears some resemblance to all main train stations I've seen in Europe, I suppose:

Brussels by train

[LEUVEN]
I stayed over in Leuven when I arrived and the night I left. My friend D. is a pleasant 5 minute walk from the main train station there, which is a 15 minute train ride to Brussels-National airport.

Leuven is a funny town with sister town Louvain-la-Neuve, which I talked about before (at "case in point...").

I arrived a bit late-ish, so didn't snap many pictures. This is the view from the main train station down towards their cathedral:

I did take some pics of my friend's swank flat, but it feels a bit weird to just toss them up here, so you'll have to trust me that it is swank. 3 of the 5 or so (depending on how you count) rooms in his place have (filled in) marble fire places, and there are some awesome chandeliers.

[LILLE: May 20th until 25th + September 2012]
The title says "+ September 2012" since I had been to Lille once before, a middle-small-sized town in the Flemish bit of France. It is really a lovely town, and a good blend of Dutch and French sensitivities (French:
2 euros for the best cheddar/brie/etc you'll ever have!
8 euros is 'too much' to pay for a good bottle of wine!
Dutch: 
Meat! Beer-y meat!
Delicious beer!
More beer! ;))
I'm also told that despite being in France, people tend to drink beer with meals instead of wine.

That does not keep them from speaking French, however. I was thinking (again) this trip that French is a really "wet" language. Like you always need some reserve spit hanging out in your mouth to properly say words like "rouge".

Lille has made its "name" by being that place where the train dumps you off in France when coming to France from London. Some people just change trains and head on to other places in France. The rest just hang out and go shopping. As a result, there are a lot of people wandering around speaking English, and the staff at the more centrally-located shops tend to speak some English as a result, which is nice as a foreigner.

When arriving in Lille (specifically at the train station Lille Europe), one is greeted by the Eurostar building, which reminds you, in case you didn't know, that the town you're in has a name that begins with the letter "L":

Adjacent is a nice mall abutting a giant French version of target/walmart, Carrefour. Everything from "Je t'aime" baking tins to 2 euro cheddar to random clothing. The mall itself is full of fashionable-yet-affordable (mainly) stuff. I got a few things there and had fun looking around.


The sort of main square area:

Those polls show where cars can drive. Confusing the first time through.

I think some of my main thoughts walking around both Lille and Leuven is that it's clear (or, at least, seems so) that these places did not get obliterated in WWII bombings, unlike a lot of towns in Germany. Either that, or they had top notch reconstruction efforts.

The following is a fantastic example of German-style humor (wordplay):

Fleur de Lille 

[FOOD IN LILLE:]

My first day in, we met several other math people and went to dinner at Café Leffe. I really enjoyed the "English" menu. I took a picture but it was too dark to be really legible. My favorite items were:

CONCERNING PORC WAY BIG MOTHER about 300 grams. (cote de porc façon grand-mére)
and CRUNCHY OF GOAT (which was a goat cheese and crostini salad, I believe)

The next day, we ate out again after watching a practice job talk, at Les 3 Brasseurs. I had a flammküchen (spelled roughly the same as in German), which is kind of pizza, but with super thin crust. For dessert, I had to try the one that came with a bit of everything (it was all amazingly delicious):

Coffee + a shot of something + 3 tiny desserts

French desserts do a good job of being both rich(i.e. fatty) and sweet.

We also ate several times at Exki, which has delicious tarts, quiche, and other healthy-seeming foods. They also have good coffee and free wifi. :)

Other expeditions were made to Le Pain Quotidien, which had nice food and coffee (and wifi), but was much smaller and so a bit cramped.


[SEPTEMBER 2012 IN LILLE:]

I took a day or two to walk around the place. Here's pictures I took along the way.

Seafoood mural on a seafood restaurant

This next bit was the main tourist shopping boutique-y area of Lille, in its old town:

the main tourist shopping area of lille

Random red building nearby:

This cool mirrored building abuts the end of the canal-formerly-known-as-moat (for the citadel):

cool mirrored building

Said moat/canal: I would doubt that there are any real fish inside. It smelled pretty rank (which might have to do with its history as a moat):

moat/canal with fish graffiti

The citadel which goes with said moat:

Citadel plaque

The citadel is still actively militarized, so the best I could do was walk up and take a picture of it from the bridge over the moat:

"entrance" (although, couldn't really enter)

Nearby (ish) to the citadel is the Zoo, which is free and public and rather sad. They had some white rhinos:

And some primates that seemed to have some fun hanging out on their fence and trying to grab things from the water. Or maybe just contemplate life: 

Lille has quite a few churches, some of which I just walked by and some which I went inside of.

Church fenced in by other buildings

cool church top

One had a really cool pulpit-thing (all wood): 

Like most old churches, these had lots of little niches, some with relics. This one contained the bone of a crusader: 

the very smallest topmost thing contains said bone

Also some mosaics which looked like tapestries to me:

mosaic-"tapestries"

another view of the wall mosaics and niches

The mosaics were also on the floor:

probably meant to represent Lille

Other stuff:

a rather modern window

If you walk south(ish) enough, you run into the Port de Lille, pointing Paris-wards (I think):

Port de Lille

[Brussels: May 25th]

To Brussels! I've been to Brussels properly once before, in November of 2009 (you can go back and see my pictures here and here (I also saw Amsterdam, Bruges and Ghent on that trip)).

I caught the mid-day-ish TGV/Thalys back to Brussels on Saturday morning.

Since I've done most of the touristy things, I was more interested in chilling out, enjoying the great weather and exploring.

First stop! Food, at this kooky place called "Ozfair"

the storefront

It was a good example of the kind of multi-use bizarro-zoning place we saw several of later. This place had:

• a small cafe-ish-area in the middle. 
• The front was (mainly) jewelry. 
• The back was some more drygoods-esque stuff, and 
• downstairs were clothes.  

We had the lunch of the day, which was some pretty good soup, nice bread (with butter! Bread never comes with butter in Germany) and some other miscellaneous stuff.

I bought a really cool necklace there:

blue! green! yellow-green! teal!

Around the corner was Hallepoort, which we looked at and into (apparently, it houses the military stuff museum) but didn't pay to enter the museum part:

Between this and the castle in Ghent, I have learned that Belgium might be the place to go for "castles"

Since the first trip to Brussels was so wet and my attempt to visit the flea market had been rained on, I wanted to make it this time. That was fun, even though we only saw it for a bit more than half an hour. 

View of the square via google streetview:

View Larger Map

There were no waffles in sight, but there was a cart selling oysters facing another selling snails.

This is clearly where you go to outfit your cool, trendy apartment in the Brussels-area. All kinds of beautiful plates and cups. Silverware. Do-it-yourself chandeliers. Miscellaneous furniture. Odd appliances.  The occasional bicycle. There was also a good bit of clothing and antiques. 

This was one of the weirder things there (oh, Belgium): 

All the streets have 2-3 names it seems (Dutch, French, and sometimes another (French?) name additionally). Rue de Renards/ Rue Haute/Rue du Faucon was the street that was on the edge of the plaza and lead upwards, which we walked up afterwards (and had walked down before). It had a lot of cool little shops, including one with some robots in the back.

on Rue de Renards/ Rue Haute/Rue du Faucon

on Rue de Renards/ Rue Haute/Rue du Faucon

We walked around the corner onto Hoogestraat.

Pretty buildings

There were some cool facing murals:

Also, along the way, some cute family-planning advertising (this was one of several posters, and the one that made me realize the halos were condoms):

condom-halos; Brussels: where "city planning" is not what you think it means

On this street, by the place that sold clothes by the kilo (15 euro/kilo) was a place selling kitchen supplies in a similar way:

We stepped into this shop which sold:

• Things you install in your home (e.g. fancy antique windows)
• Stuff to put inside your home (sofas and chairs)
• Clothes
• and also had a cafe area.

awesome windows above, tables below, and a mannequin with a sign that said the clothes were upstairs

looking down at the cafe

At some point, we'd also walked past a hospital with cool lettering:

We also came across an American-clothes store with a free in-store blues concert. They said they were part of the Brussels Jazz Marathon that weekend, which then explained the presence of this at Sablon:

Nearby: World Champion of Pastry, 1995? Way to rest on your laurels, guys ;)

Turns out, the cake was delicious (and not a lie). The one on the right is the world-champion-winning recipe:

Walking from there to the Grote Markt/Grand Place to meet up with the other former-Champaign-Urbana-ite, I caught a glimpse of waffles:

Waffle truck!?

and a very quaint little square:

pretty Belgian square nearish the Grote Markt/Grand Place

If you didn't know, Tintin (and some other famous comics) originates in Belgium. Thus, random Tintin murals on buildings around the city:

Tintin!

To come full circle, we walked through the street I remember which boarders on the Grote Markt/Grand Place, full of almost-identical restaurants all with 18 euro menus, with waiters standing outside, trying to beckon you in:

It was nice to be back in Lille and the Brussels-area. Sadly, much as "Wally" (of Wally's waffles) said, most of the Brussels-area waffles one can get are the "Liege"-style, where "fresh" means that they were made that morning and re-heated when you order them. We did sit down and have a waffle at a restaurant, but it was sadly overcooked. I guess I'll have to go back to Amsterdam for a proper Brussels waffle. ;)

Aarhus (4-7 April 2013)

I was in Aarhus(Åarhus), Denmark for a few days recently for a conference.  It is a smaller town than Copenhagen, population-wise, but I had the feeling that every bend I turned around there were more cool, tiny non-mainstream shops and awesome restaurants. They also have a pretty solid tourism-bureau presence (their 'slogan' is "Take a moment with Aarhus") and an app I can totally recommend that has offline maps of town that sync up with your GPS (if you allow it), so you can watch where you are on said map.

Here's one of the streets with cute little shops (ala google maps):

View Larger Map

And a view down another street to an odd mural of a lady being fed by a seagull:

weird mural of lady being fed by bird

I don't speak Danish, but was told by the foreign Danish-speakers that the people of Aarhus are much easier to understand (and be understood by),  basically because they actually say all parts of their words. E.g. in Copehagen, the Strøget is said, roughly "Stroy" and in Aarhus, "Stroyet".

AAHUS, which is roughly how you say Århus

The way from the hotel (Cabinn Scandinavia, Aarhus) to the department walked us (mainly) past this thing/sculpture, which I was ambivalent about:
View Larger Map


In case you weren't around for my original (from 2008) copenhagen adventures, you can read them starting here, which includes a stay in one of the Cabinn's in Copenhagen (there are several there), sharing a very small room with three other people.  Here's the room ('clearly' meant for four people, with the four beds) I stayed in in Aarhus:

Cabinn -- those are four beds. The two bunch beds are folded in against the wall

Also, because I don't know where else to put it, a random mural we came across when walking to dinner:

I don't know. 

There's also a museum that Aarhus is very proud of (ARoS), atop which sits this circular spectrum of colors that you can walk around and view Aarhus through. Their picture is much better than mine, due to the perspective which includes the harbor. Quite nice.

famous spectrum thingy atop a museum there

I have to catalog somewhere the crazy places I ate out at.

The first night, we went out for BBQ, at the most authentic BBQ place I've been to outside of where I lived in Illinois, or in Austin TX. This was Aarhus' "Memphis Roadhouse" (here's their yelp page), located along a river/canal near the hotel. I admit, I had some trouble understanding the waitress's English. I think words like "Burnt Ends" and "Misssisssipi Mud Pie" are kind of hard.  It was absolutely delicious, and they even managed to have hot sauce too hot for me (uncommon over here).  They also had sweet tea (it was too late at night for me to feel up for some, sadly), and even a gospel brunch on sundays.

We also ate out at Mackie's (website has pictures of the interior).  I split some super giant nachos and had a beer. Others had pizza and whatnot. The inside was strangely decorated, a weird scavenged-from-yardsales feel that reminded me of Chuy's. Their ''gimmick" is that they refuse to serve you utensils with your pizza, insisting that you eat it (American-style) with your hands. The pizza crust itself looked too thick to be NY style and too thin to be what I think of as "delivery-style" (e.g. Papa John's), but had some very tasty-looking possible combos of toppings. 

"Mackie's is an American inspired cafe and restaurant where one's eyes will always find something new to look at while food is being prepared. Come in and enjoy the good food and atmosphere in one Mickey's lifetime collection of rock legends, movie stars, football star, American Indian, the Buddha and our sweet staff."

Den Gamle By ("The Old Town"):
So, on day 1 I got in early and did some touristing. I went to Den Gamle By, which is the Danish answer to the though "Hey,town (insert name) doesn't have enough old stuff." That is, old buildings from Aarhus and further afield in Denmark (e.g. Aalborg) were moved, originally brick-by-brick, and now cut like big slices of cake and moved almost whole-sale, to Aarhus.

a building being assembled

I thought it was delightful, even with the 15 euro admission (which makes sense, when you think of the
work put into transport and reconstruction).

I kind of like the absurd modern building in the background.

quaint shops and buildings, near the (functioning) baker

some geese in the half-frozen pond in the middle

more quaintness

Warehouse. 1550. Something famous about the construction that didn't make much sense to me.

I enjoyed their blurb about the following Victorian-style living room:

"Cosiness, a mixture of styles and an excess of furniture, pictures, bric-a-brac and houseplants. In order to make more space, much of the furniture was placed diagonally...Wallpapers and textiles were large patterend as well as many patterned. This furniture belongs together": 

Victorian-style living room, 1890s.

I really liked the bold color choices made on walls and in wallpaper. E.g.
The blue walls in a hat-makers shop:

Mid 19th C hat-maker's shop

The awesome (original?) wallpaper in a clock makers shop:

19thC clockmakers shop and workshop. The wallpaper is of a similar age.

The rich red of the tobacconist:

Mid 19thC Tobacconist. This sort of shop was somehow snooty/high-class.

The bright yellow of another room somehow involved in the tobacco/cigar-production facility:

part of the same tobacco/cigar shop/complex.

Also in Den Gamle By were various other shops, including the following for yarn/cloth:

yarn/dying workshop

I did not take a picture of the baker, in part because it was actually a functioning bakery and I felt a bit weird taking a picture of a place & person without asking first.

Here's a view down a side-street:

view down a side street

And this was above a doorway:

It looks like a bear is getting into the beer?

One of the houses/rooms was set up as a shop. People tended to bring their lunches and their employer would often sell them something to drink. This was the counter of such a drink-selling-area. The flasks below the counter are labeled as "Aquavit" ((popular) Danish spirit):

counter to buy some drinks

The room where people would eat and drink had a fireplace with an inscription above it that something like how they hoped the fire would burn, but not higher than it should (and then burn your food):

something about wanting the fire to burn high/sure, but not higher than it's supposed to (i.e. don't burn the food or the whole place down). 

I enjoyed the Museum-within-the museum:

Museum in a museum 

Which was set up according to sketches they had of an 1820s-era Danish museum

Not a great pic; included for the "forrige aarhundrede" label 

woo pottery 

I have to say, I think I prefer modern museums that try to tell stories. These were just sort of shelves with stuff on them, behind glass, and hardly any labels.

Moving on, we had still other shops and combination living-working quarters.

a post office, with real messenger bags! 

The following is a pretty swank (in my opinion) teacher's room. I think the couch looks especially nice (the wood, at least, and the cushion was at some point nice):

schoolteacher's living quarters, adjacent/in the same building as the schoolroom

The schoolroom (which I didn't get a good picture of) talked a bit about education and how it used to be very informal (children teaching younger children) until at some point some king passed a law mandating public education, and this introduced requirements about the people doing the teaching.

Moving on to more modern stuff, some signs:

Sale! Cheapest prices (~ billigste Preisen)! Biggest selection (~größter Auswahl)!

Drink Jutland beer in Jutland (?)

Nearby there was another museum-in-museum, this one for delftware and clocks, next to one for posters.

I enjoyed the delftware story. Apparently the king (Fred IV) was not happy that the Netherlands were making all the delftware than Denmark was buying, so he granted a certain company exclusive rights for 30 years (starting in 1722) to make all the delftware in Denmark (in hopes of encouraging people to buy Danish-made stuff).  The first manager, in 1725, stole all of the blue cobalt pigment (which was freshly acquired and super expensive) to set up his own factory in Sweden. Life went on, and after the monopoly was repealed, the place shut down for good. For the record, it was made in Kellinghusen, which is west of Itzehoe, in Schleswig-Holstein, which was nominally 'Danish' at the time.

so, creepy delftware.

There was a big Danish sea battle in 1677. In honor of it, they made a giant medallion (diam of 12.8 cm, weighs 457g and made of 24 carat gold). It is "the largest, and, technically speaking, the most perfect numismatic item ever struck in Denmark" (translation: biggest and most awesome coin minted in Denmark):

giant coin-medal

Also, a nod to the clock part of the museum: A map of denmark with clocks which are somehow characteristic of the specific regions:

Denmark clocks

Back to the streets and out-of-doors.

I enjoyed this little street of shops, including the travel bureau:

travel bureau

I don't know what the people who were persuaded to go to the states by this poster ended up actually experiencing, but I hope it was awesome:

America! All indians, all the time!

There was also a door covered in old signs (showing that Roskilde has been going on since at least the 70s):

I also enjoyed the retro-style mural advert for "jolly cola" next to the advert for the place itself (Besøg is pretty clearly "Besuch", meaning "visit"):

I'd definitely be up for visiting again, hopefully getting to see a bit more of the town. Seems like a great place.