Monday, November 27, 2017

2017 Nov 25-26: A weekend in Stuttgart, Auto Museum and Staatsgallerie

Stuttgart is about an hour away from Mannheim by train and up until this trip, I had only been once, in the main train station, having grabbed the wrong train and that was the first stop after Mannheim.

Its population is twice that of Mannheim, which is 100k less than Frankfurt. Home to Daimler-Benz and Porsche, it is still known mostly as a city of car manufacturing. Other large manufacturing companies have their headquarters there, like Bosch.

According to some travel blog I read, Stuttgart has the second greatest number of thermal baths in Europe after Budapest, which is kind of surprising given Baden-Baden's reputation. Ended up booking a hotel with a bookable (for guests) private sauna, which was pretty cool.

Saturday: Auto museum
Sunday: Tower and Staatsgalerie (museum)

On Saturday, which was grey and bleak, went to the Daimler-Benz Automuseum. 

Very interesting. Two very different mindsets about engines. Daimler was all about PUT AN ENGINE ON EVERYTHING, and Benz was very much about building the two together into a car-like object.  This thing with Daimler is where the three pointed star comes from: engines on land, sea, air.

Your visit starts with a ride in a retro futuristic elevator to the 8th floor, then you wind your way down.

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The following exhibiion opens with a stuffed horse. The base of this taxidermy is a quote from the Kaiser at the time, stating he believed in the horse, and that the automobile was transitory.

Museum opens with a stuffed horse
stuffed horse; I enjoy that someone bothered to put this on wheels


As part of the leading-up-to cars history, I learned that the Neckar river used to handle upstream barge traffic with help of chains that the boats could sort of pull themselves along, as illustrated in this cute model.

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diorama of Heidelberg

We then had a hall of all the things with motors in them, including some early tram type things.

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motorize all the things!


The early auto transitioned from a motorized carriage to something that gentlemen drove themselves -- and would race. One early gentleman racer was driving Benzes and as part of his deal, he got some cars named after his daughter, Mercedes.

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swarovski crystal decorations hanging above. I found this display really swank
This was an example of one of the sweet early racecars/roadsters:

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I'd drive that

German trivia: fenders were developed to keep all the horse crap off of people that got churned up by the wheels. Thus, the german name for fender is "Kotflügel",  Kot (said like "coat") is animal excrement (dogs, horses, whatever) and Flügel is wing.

Another shiny car I would toally drive

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vrooom


A nice graph of work hours due to bombing and air raid alarms. The orange shows clearly hours lost.

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Daimler and Benz were competitors (various engine patents were filed in Mannheim, and they still have a presence there), forced to merge at some point due to the market. I think this was actually post-WWII.

Eventually, we went from casual racing to more practical things, like every kind of truck. I love this bus from Argentina. 

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In the same hall was an early tourist bus thing from the UK

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I will close with some fancy modern cars: 

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I rushed through the museums last 4 floors in hopes of making it outside to catch some of the sun that had appeared. It was of course mostly obscured once outside, and there was a long wait on the next S Bahn back to town.

Sunday got up to more flurries and ok weather (for winter), so tried out Killesberg Turm while the weather held, then a museum.

Killesberg tower is in a park, near some (pretty boring from the outside) cubist houses, and a museum to Le Corbusier (father of high rises and apartments that are poorly planned in terms of living -- you are expected to bring your groceries there and sleep there, but not really have parks or other useful things nearby).
Most of the later criticism of Le Corbusier was directed at his ideas of urban planning. In (...)The public housing projects influenced by his ideas have also been criticized for isolating poor communities in monolithic high-rises and breaking the social ties integral to a community's development. (...)
For some critics, the urbanism of Le Corbusier's was the model for a fascist state.These critics cited Le Corbusier himself when he wrote that "not all citizens could become leaders. The technocratic elite, the industrialists, financiers, engineers, and artists would be located in the city centre, while the workers would be removed to the fringes of the city".(found on Wikipedia)

Killesberg turm

The view was nice. Stuttgart clearly has a lot of wine produced still in the area, I bet it is great to hike in the vineyards in the summer.


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Me, making one of many faces (the album contains the dozen or so other related pics)
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my coworker makes this face often. It reminds me of that surprised...prairie dog?...meme


Returning to the city, ended up having lunch at a nice indian place, getting the Thali, and checking out the Staatsgalerie, which won over the choice of museums because of the pop unlimited exhibition

The Staatsgalerie is on a little strip of several museums, near the center of town which had a pre-Advent "Winter market" open by a very tiny ice rink. 

I will link it rather than display it, in case you might offend anyone by some dude-bits hanging out on your screen while reading this. 

This piece reminds me of the plush toys people make out of kids scribbles:

Modernism

There was a mix of modernism and post modernism (and other stuff, but that is what I took pictures of). I liked this poster story of a guy who was like hey this thing i found is art. 

Found objects as art
dude declares a wine rack a piece of art, starts a movement

In the hallway between wings was this (technically grammatically incorrect):
One potato, two potato, three potato
one potato, two potato, three potato


I loved this. Kadinsky. He is hard to understand? I would put this on my wall. Or on a paravent.

Kadinsky



I like this next thing because of how bizarre it is.

Imagine you got to visit Picasso in his studio.
You knock, you are called to let yourself in, and you are greeted by this.

Picasso 6 figures
never intended to be displayed in a gallery, just picasso fucking around 

In a completely different part of the gallery was another arrangement echoing this one in a sort of almost creepy circus figure way
Non-Picasso

After the gallery, it was time to hop a train and head home, chill out a little, do things one puts off for Sunday evenings, and rest. 


Sunday, September 24, 2017

2017 September 8-10 Milan, Italy

Milan was hosting its first event in a dance genre I like, during my birthday weekend, seemed like a perfect fit. The forecast was rain with some more rain, so I checked out a few rainy day lists of Milan (e.g. this one) while planning.

Just the pictures, if you have no patience for reading :)

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FRIDAY, 08. September: getting in, cocktail contest, fancy storefronts and gelato 

I flew into Milan Linate airport (LIN), the closest of the 2-3 options you have (the other "Bergamo" is quite far away), maybe 7km from the city center. There are 3-5 various shuttle services to the main train station in the city. Only one has set up shop by the baggage carousel, so I bought my ticket from them, but clearly they are designed to be staggered so that you can always grab one whenever you need. From the bus, it reminded me of Barcelona. Walking around, a mix of that and Paris.

Once at the main train station, you should enjoy the architecture
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then buy yourself a day ticket for the metro maybe (worth it if you are going to travel at least 3 times in 24 hrs -- unlike Germany, the day pass is good for exactly 24 hours from the first time you use it, and will cost about 4.50 EUR) from one of the tabacco stores in the station for the metro, given the professional beggars seem to hang around the ticket machines trying to "help" confused tourists (for a fee of course).

I took the metro to my lodgings, about 2 stops away near the Porto Garibaldi. This was the first scene to meet my eyes, and belied a sort of (astonishing to me) trend in Milan I saw -- of people having full grown trees, almost mini-forests, on their balconies.

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Forest-balconies near the train station

Once I got in, I got the keys for  my swank apartment-lodgings (not airbnb, booking dot com, but clearly an apartment no one has ever lived in (no knives!)):

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I popped around the corner to ESSELUNGA, a fancy-to-me but reasonably-priced grocery store, where, among other things, I bought an amazing salad for less than 3 EUR (chicken breast meat, some interesting greens, fresh tomatoes).

I then set out to augment my dinner with some gelato and exploration, given that Milan is a town known for fashion, in a country that is king of gelato-flavors, imo.

First Gelato location. I'm sorry I didn't take a picture of the insides. It's a chocolate shop cum retro copper/brassy bar. Delighful. I forget the flavors (it's been a few weeks now...), but they were incredible.
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om nom nom
A++ would eat there again. Every day. :)

Walking down corso cuomo (fancy shopping street with also lots of restaurants, it passes through/by this lovely arch.
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to the left of it is EATALY, cooking-school cum fancy restaurant


I stopped in for EATALY's cocktail competition (rained out the next day, otherwise would have gone back)
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menu of interesting cocktails to be vo

I had a bizarro margarita. Server on the left, margarita middle, trendy crowd to the right:

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I asked another guy nearby if it's legal to just drink while walking around (note: not legal in Romania, but fine in Germany, so figured worth checking). Dude said yes, definitely, and winked at me.

I walked, drinking, and had another gelato.
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om nom
My walk, down corso cuomo/what it becomes was along a lot of darkened storefronts. Very trendy and well put-together.

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winter is coming, eh? 

Intermingled with this was a variety of graffiti.

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I really liked this kitchen:
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Returning northwards along the street, through the gate/arch:

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PRO-TIP: Italians, like French and Spaniards, start dinner around 9pm. An affordable, earlier option is to buy an apertif-plus-buffet (around 7-12 Euros), tends to run 5/6pm to 9pm. 


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Sign advertising Apertif + buffet for 7 Euros
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SATURDAY, 09. September: 10 corso cuomo, castle, Canal district. __________

I'd read that the b&b/café/store 10 corso como (that's the address) was a must-see, so popped in en-route to the castle.
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Went to and through the courtyard of the Castle Sforzeco. Didn't go up on the ramparts or anything.
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Lunch was nearby at a place that served an inside-out salmon salad. The food was ok.
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Was impressed by a pharmacy with a vending machine. Tampons, bandaids, anti-blister care, condoms and pregnancy tests. They had everything!
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After lunch and gelato, there was wondering down to the uni area, then the Navigli Canal district, which is pretty hip.

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Stopped for another snack at an amazing bakery (Il Forno dei Navigli):

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those are canneloni with pistachios in the background

As the rain started, but before it turned to pouring, found a prosciuteria (La Prosciutteria Navigli) 

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interior


that had an amazing "gourmet board" we split along with some wine.  Great dinner, great view.

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SUNDAY, 10. September: the Duomo  



Voila
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Bought tickets online beforehand (PRO TIP, great idea, you also get a "skip the line" option). 


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The most interesting part of the church (included in our deluxe skip-the-line tickets) was by far the archeological area. There was a baptistry built in 370 or so, torn down a thousand years later to build the church. The remnants of the floor of the baptistry and its pool are on display. Pretty cool.
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The church ticket includes entry to the Church Museum, which is stuff they've had to take down for preservation reasons. Interesting to get up close and personal with stuff you're supposed to see from afar.

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St. Agnes had some weird hands and feet:

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They also had a nice wooden model of the dome, showing you where the various statues are:
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like this dude


Near the dome is a super-fancy shopping mall area.
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After the church and museum, wanted food and warmth and asked Yelp for a nearby resto reccommendation. Was not disappointed. Ended up at Salsamenteria di Parma. They are a bit quirky, serving (sparkling red) wine in bowls (like our forefathers!) which we had, as well as a nice platter.

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After lunch, hiding from the rain, found a weird dimly-lit side corridor that clearly used to abut something, since lots of famous people signed the concrete there:
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To finish up the wandering-around photos, here's a cute street around Milan:

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Sunday dinner local, on corso cuomo at Alla Cucina della Langhe. The salad portion of the menu:

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What we ate:
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Flew out very early from Milan the next day.